Chalet du Mont-Royal's best-kept secret
Montreal loves the Mount Royal Chalet
Everyone climbs to the top of Mount Royal for the view of the skyscrapers, but few people take the time to really look inside the Mount Royal Chalet. And as the Friendly Giant used to say “Look up, look way up!” Because there is something to see up there. Behind Aristide Beaugrand-Champagne’s grand architecture lies a charming detail that most tourists completely miss.
A tradition carved in wood
Built in 1932, the Mount Royal Chalet is a masterpiece of rustic design. But if you look closely at the huge wooden beams and brackets (the supports that hold up the ceiling), you’ll discover a band of hand-carved squirrels directly cut into the structure, in pairs. One at each end of every beam.
This isn’t happenstance. They pay homage to the mountain’s real mascots, while adding a playful touch to the building’s solemnity, and they make every guest from France happy. In a way, they’re our Montreal version of the gingerbread style, which, as you can imagine, is particularly dear to our hearts here at Gingerbread Manor!
Your mission: The treasure hunt
To make your visit more fun, try to spot these details with your loved ones:
- Ceiling guardians: How many squirrels can you count hiding in the woodwork of the great hall?
- Expressions: Notice how each sculpture seems to have its own personality. This is where we recognize the talent of Quebec artisans of the time.
- The contrast: After finding the wooden versions inside, step out onto the Kondiaronk lookout to see if you can spot their live cousins running around the park.
Why do we love it?
It’s this kind of detail that makes Montreal magical. It’s not just a building of stone and wood; it’s a space filled with historical nods. For photo enthusiasts, these sculptures provide a wonderful contrast to the large murals that line the walls and tell the story of Montreal itself. Do you recognize any of the names? A room name?
A history lesson on the walls
Look around. The paintings that line the great hall were part of Beaugrand-Champagne’s plan from the start: he brought in thirteen artists, including Marc-Aurèle Fortin and Edwin Holgate, to fill the walls with episodes from Montreal’s history. Mixed in among the scenes are reproductions of old maps, so as you walk the room you can watch the city and the mountain change from 1535 to 1760. Most visitors stand in the middle of it all, look up at the squirrels… and forget to turn around.
The man behind the lookout's name
Step outside. The terrace in front of the Chalet has a name, the Kondiaronk Lookout (Belvedere), and it only received that name in 1997. Kondiaronk was a Huron-Wendat chief, a strategist so cunning that the French nicknamed him Le Rat, the Rat. In August 1701 he brought the nations together in Montreal for the Great Peace, and made the speech that sealed it while already burning with fever. He died the next day, was buried at Notre-Dame after a funeral with full honours, and the treaty was signed the day after that. You are standing in a place named for the man who chose talk over war.
Tip from Gingerbread Manor
The Mount Royal Chalet is particularly quiet on weekday mornings. It’s the perfect time to admire the woodwork without the crowds. After your exploration, head back down to the Plateau to tell us how many you’ve found, or take the opportunity to discover our neighbourhood’s other treasures!
Don’t forget to bring your camera, as the late afternoon light through the windows of the Mount Royal Chalet creates a warm atmosphere that beautifully highlights each squirrel sculpture. It’s the perfect time to capture the essence of Montreal before returning to the calm of the Manor.
How do I get to Chalet Mont-Royal?
For our guests at Gingerbread Manor, there are several options for reaching the summit. Most simply walk: it is about 45 minutes uphill from our door, through the park, finishing with the emblematic Mount Royal staircase from Avenue des Pins (get your legs ready, there are over 250 steps!). For a gentler option, you can take STM bus line 11 from Mont-Royal metro station, which will drop you off just a few steps from the Mount Royal Chalet entrance.
Here is something to think about on those steps: you have just walked over the only tunnel through Mount Royal. It was bored so trains could reach Central Station downtown, opened in 1918, and trains still pass beneath the mountain today, now carrying the REM. No sign, no marker… you would never know it was there.
Once you’ve reached the Kondiaronk lookout, take a moment to admire the view before entering the main hall to begin your squirrel hunt. Inside you will find a café counter, washrooms, and a floor-to-ceiling fireplace for warming up in winter. It’s a perfect activity to combine with a picnic or a simple walk in the forest.
Architect Aristide Beaugrand-Champagne insisted on materials that echo the surrounding nature, which is why solid wood is so prominent, and the carvings still show off the heritage of Quebec craftsmanship almost a century later.